Update to my previoius comment. After 4 years, the first link is dead. The second one will still get you to the notebook. There is a much better book available that covers everything about maple syrup from growing trees to building the sugar house.
North American Maple Syrup Producers Manual, 3rd Ed.430 pages free download.
https://mapleresearch.org/pub/manual/

From my experience cutting these invasive trees down and removing their roots while still saplings the Norway Maple is on the hard side of Soft Maple. They also grow very fast.
Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acer_platanoides#:~:text=The%20wood%20is%20hard%2C%20yellowish,in%20regard%20to%20decay%20resistance) says the Janka hardness is 1010 lbf.

Toronto often planted Norway Maples along streets up to about 50 years ago, I suspect Buffalo did the same. They do very well in urban environments and are now considered invasive.
They get those black fungus circles in the fall. Their leaves are larger than Sugar Maple leaves and look tike the typical maple leaf. When we lived in Toronto both our neighbours had Norway Maples on the city owned part of their front yard. Here in London Ontario we mostly have Silver Maples and Red Maples, these do not get the black spots. We have a Sugar Maple in our back yard, no spots.

We tap our silver maple in Iowa and get really good results. over 3% sugar in the sap and good flavor syrup. Yes the sap goes bitter quickly when the buds come out, but we get a month of good production first. Typically over a gallon of 68.5% syrup per large silver maple tree.

I have a bunch of Norway maple that’s air dried for 4-6 years, it’s the palest of the maples I know about tbh. But it’s also soft. Like much softer than soft maple. I’d also say the same about box elder which in my experience is softer than poplar / on par with basswood.

Interesting. (And didn’t expect an answer after all this time, lol.) So are you wondering if it’s a cultivar or just a plain ‘ol red maple? (No an expert here, just know a few things from early work life in horticulure.)

Rule of thumb is the softer the maple, the less suitable for syrup.Lots of people tap the reds around here. And boxelders–I forget offhand, but there’s a time when the sap goes bad for syruping–so you get a shorter useable season out of them than other maples.

I thoght they might be, but my mom pointed out that they don’t do the “crimson” the variety is known for, and the leaf shape is closer to the hard/sugar maples. They’re possibly THE most common maple in my area. “Striking” is not a word I would use to describe them. As I said, they bud out a strong red, but quickly shift to a deep, purplish-green. In “high color” years, they might go a dirty orange in fall, but in most years, they just go purple, then brown. I understand they get the “red” name because their VANES have a distinct redness to them, not the leaf as a whole. Which was my point in posting.

The is a commonly sold “Crimson King” cultivar of Norway Maple, (a native of Eurasia, and can be an invader in the U.S.) The dark wine-red leaves make it a striking tree, but the leaf shape is of course that of Norway Maple. Could that be what you have?

I never tested Norway maple, but I do know that silver maple gives a relatively mild/light result.

Thanks!

I live in Hawaii and I find Mango to be comparable in color and workability(as maple). It has a slightly different figure than but is very consistent throughout and can be worked weeks after milling. Very economical lumber and abundant.

It’s maple. I run a business making/repairing/and refinishing furniture. It isn’t a “stain” but a tinted lacquer or glaze. I see a lot of maple pieces and it is good solid furniture. It strips easily and repairs well.

Seems rather soft and may be a typo. Also, keep in mind that “Camden” maple is just a made up name and not a real wood species, so who knows what you would actually be getting.

We brought home a sample box of prefinì shed solid hardwood flooring from Floor and Decor labeled as Camden maple. The hardness rating online says 1 with a janka of 700. Does this make sense for hardwood flooring?

And the preferred harvesting location was on a north-facing slope; in fact, one of the ways our middle-school orchestra teacher told us to gauge the quality of a violin was by measuring the grain. (>1/8 in=student, 1/8-1/16=intermediate, <1/16=pro)