Comments on: Leadwood

By: Nick

Nick — Tue, 12 Sep 2023 13:13:01 +0000

Is leadwood and mgrure more or less interchangeable or are there significant differences between them?

By: Mike Harrison

Mike Harrison — Sun, 13 Aug 2023 22:23:25 +0000

My extraordinarily heavy 24″ leadwood bowl. I made an angle iron ring with cast iron casters to move this 100# beauty around!

By: Andri Snær Þorvaldsson

Andri Snær Þorvaldsson — Sun, 07 May 2023 23:20:33 +0000

Thank you for a very useful database!
Just finished turning this from Leadwood.

By: Jason

Jason — Wed, 25 Nov 2020 18:46:25 +0000

In reply to Danny Jenner.

Danny,

I also ordered a Holzkern watch with leadwood. I’m wondering what I can put on the wood to protect it from rain, etc… Turtle wax? Some kind of oil?

By: Kenny

Kenny — Thu, 28 May 2020 03:59:57 +0000

I live in Zambia and use the wood regularly. It is great for turning but very hard even green. If it fully dried it will break tools, including carbide. I turn vases and lamps sanded down to 800 and it doesn’t need anything on it. No wax, varnish, or oil. The wood is so dense it shines beautifully. I have noticed it is susceptible to cracking but I keep CA glue on the lathe and when i notice cracks appearing I hit it with the glue and it usually stops them in their tracks. We have trees in the 55+ range which yield some really nice workable wood for furniture. We typically wait for them to get hit by a storm or strong wind where you can find large branches that have fallen. Branches of 30+ can be picked up. However, if you wait too long and they get too dry they are extremely difficult for the mill. You can really damage some blades and if you do you will mess up your wood with waves. I have found the new 747 blades from Wood-Mizer work the best. We have tried the 10-30’s, 4-10’s, and the carbide tipped but the 747’s worked the best. We typically cut our wood at least 1 inch thicker due to the waves in the wood which is taken out in the surfacing process. The Wood makes beautiful cutting boards, serving trays, platters, bowls, etc. however, it is not so kind to the knives as a cutting board. The Wood makes beautiful wooden home decor but is very heavy.

By: Danny Jenner

Danny Jenner — Wed, 27 Nov 2019 14:11:07 +0000

In reply to victor. Hi Victor sorry for the delayed response, yes it is the Holzkern Kay Model

By: Wynand Uys

Wynand Uys — Sun, 04 Aug 2019 11:29:47 +0000

Thank you for the info.
Thanks, Derrick for the additional comments.
As regards odor:
To me it has a pleasant characteristic odor.
Very noticeable sweet, spicy smell when worked.
Its smoke is also aromatic.
It does turn very well, if cutters are sharpened regularly.
In South Africa it is now a protected species, though not CITES listed.

By: victor

victor — Thu, 01 Aug 2019 10:21:02 +0000

In reply to Danny jenner. is it a Holzkern?

By: Danny jenner

Danny jenner — Fri, 17 May 2019 12:38:50 +0000

very informative, I have a watch which has Leadwood in the strap and bezel, looks very nice

By: José

José — Sat, 17 Feb 2018 18:28:43 +0000

Thanks for the information Derrick, very useful.
What finishing would suggest? Wax?

By: timbertom

timbertom — Fri, 13 Oct 2017 13:25:00 +0000

very usefull

By: chris de beer

chris de beer — Tue, 07 Feb 2017 16:10:00 +0000

Hi Derrick
Thank you for this valuable information
Regards
Chris de Beer

By: Derrick Wardhaugh

Derrick Wardhaugh — Tue, 22 May 2012 20:23:30 +0000

Sorry Eric, your post did not reflect before.

By: Derrick Wardhaugh

Derrick Wardhaugh — Tue, 22 May 2012 20:20:13 +0000

The timber is very strong but brittle, rigid in short lengths but not so rigid when long.
When grading the mill must understand the way the tree grows.
The nature of the tree is very erratic and the branches break off easily.
Unfortunately the tree grows around the knot and often leaves cavities which are often concealed.
It also suffers from shake, mostly at the base of the tree near the center.
Once again dependent on the mill and their ability to understand where to look for faults.

When machining you get a combination of fine powder-like dust and normal shavings.
BE SURE TO USE A RESPERATOR. Dust masks are ineffective.
On occasion the timber may appear to be a mustard yellow on the inside of the stock but will revert to the dark brown almost black color with age.

As far as making furniture, it is hugely rewarding.

Keep the weight in mind when designing, specially chairs, the weight will surprise an ill prepared gentleman hoping to briskly pull out a chair for his lady(he’ll end up at the cyro-practor).

It is very unkind to dull cutters and an un-trained hand.
When your tool technique is not up to scratch you will end up with chipped edges and break-out.
When making joints and shaping by hand smaller actions deliver the best results.
Reading the direction of the grain can be misleading. Work in a well-lit area of the shop.

If your joints are super tight the timber is likely to crack, it is super-dense.
When you dry fit your joints, be sure not to use too much force, rather shave material off and re-try.
The timber has a tendency to hold fast if the joint has zero tolerance.
If it does hold fast use very small movements to pry the joint apart.
Always keep in mind that the timber is brittle but strong.

Then we get to glue.
In Africa we are not as fortunate as the developed world to have the range of choice like in Europe and the United-States.
Cold glue as we know it is ineffective and releases at the slightest stress. Our Alcolin Ultra wood glue works well, but interior only.
We use Balkotan mostly, very messy glue but effective. The equivalent would be something like ‘Gorilla’.

Papering/sanding is time consuming. Best is to use a silicone based paper that deters build-up.
If using a belt sander, be sure that the foot plate/pad is good and free of high spots. This timber is highly unforgiving and will highlight incorrect workmanship. It is just as highly rewarding when it is good.

Finishing must be tested with the products that are available. Polywax products give good results, but if you are looking at varnishes know that some do not adhere in the long term. The varnish film separates when bumped or scratched due to the poor absorption of any liquid(solvent). Oiling could work, but that depends on the function of the piece.

By: Derrick Wardhaugh

Derrick Wardhaugh — Mon, 26 Mar 2012 13:37:01 +0000

To whom it may concern.

We are based in Mozambique and are busy making all the windows, doors an furniture out of Leadwood, or as we know it Monzo.

Would you be interested in some info that is missing from your site?

Regards,

Derrick.