You can wait to turn it dry and it won’t move much but to take advantage of radical movement in this material turn it green. I have mitigated CRACKING by using the brown bag method or by submerging in alcohol for a couple of days. Limb wood is notorious for “tension” in the grain but give it a shot. Thin turned work seems to warp quite nicely and unexpectedly. Turn some grooves or beads into your work and see what happens.

David and all,
I am just at the very early stages of trying to learn how to turn wood and am fascinated by your comments regarding turning Pacific Madrone.
I have a couple of the trees on my property and will most likely be trimming off some of the branches that are potentially hazardous to near by structures.
As a wood turner, do you think a true novice like me should attempt to turn a piece of madrona or should I gain a whole lot of experience first? Also, it sounds like it is best to turn the wood when it is green. Is that correct or can it or does it need to be fully dried before turning? You also mentioned that you, after turning the “green” madrone you put it into a sealed paper bag and leave it for 6-12 months. Does that prevent it from splitting while it dries out? does your turned piece warp? If so, do you turn it a second time?
if you would be kind enough to provide me with an understanding of how you handle turning madrone and finish it I would be very grateful.

Thank you for any advice/guidance you can provide.
Sincerely,
Tony Softich

No, a much better one would be a Yew limb. Find one that is partially rotted off Oakwood! It will be lightweight and Very Very almost Unbreakable!!!

Do you know if a long straight branch would be a good walking stick? Or battlefield lance?